Recording a city at 4 a.m.
What Lisbon sounds like when nobody is performing for it, and why the quiet turned out to be the story.
- Show
- Night Shift
- Host
- Maya Okafor
- Released
- Length
- 3 min
Episode player
Lisbon is never really asleep. It just stops performing. Between four and six in the morning the city drops its tourist voice and you can hear the machinery underneath: bakery ovens, street sweepers, a radio left on in a kiosk.
Show notes
- 00:00 — Leaving the flat with two microphones
- 08:42 — The bakery on Rua da Rosa
- 21:15 — Street sweepers and the first tram
- 28:04 — A conversation with Inês Duarte
- 35:30 — Sunrise, and why I stopped recording

Street sweepers and the first tram
Around 5 a.m. the city gets a second layer. Water trucks wash the cobbles, brushes scrape, and somewhere uphill the first 28 tram creaks out of the depot. Here are the cues I logged that morning:
| Time | Sound | Where |
|---|---|---|
| 04:12 | Shutter, radio, humming | Rua da Rosa |
| 04:58 | Water truck on cobbles | Largo do Carmo |
| 05:31 | Tram 28 bell | Graça |
| 06:47 | Gulls, then church bells | Miradouro |



For anyone curious about the file side, I name everything the same way so a week of walks stays findable:
2026-03-14_0412_rua-da-rosa_bakery.wav
2026-03-14_0458_largo-do-carmo_truck.wav
2026-03-14_0531_graca_tram28.wavThen I trim with sox and never touch the levels until I've slept.

Silence isn't the absence of sound. It's the moment you can finally hear the small ones.
Is it legal to record people in the street?
Sunrise, and why I stopped recording
By 6:50 the gulls arrived, then the church bells, then a delivery van reversing with its beeper going. The city had started performing again. I pressed stop and walked home for coffee.



